Before Moby-Dick, Herman Melville Disappeared on This Pacific Island

Where in the World Are We?

We are in Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas Islands.

NUKU HIVA, FRENCH POLYNESIA
The Hidden Jewel of the Marquesas Islands.

Think of French Polynesia, and you are automatically transported to the white sands of Tahiti, the blue seas of Bora Bora, or, at the very least, the iconic statues of Easter Island.

Now, imagine a place that is home to that majestic trinity, yet free of crowds and full of island authenticity that is rare in these global times. You have just imagined Nuku Hiva.

The island is the second-largest after Tahiti in the archipelago, but it has yet to be discovered by tourists. As part of the Marquesas Islands, Nuku Hiva is technically French, but don’t expect to find any blue-and-white striped shirts here! In fact, even though French is the “official” language of the island, a sing-song dialect of Tahitian mixed with Marquesan is more widely spoken. The younger generations also speak English.

Undeniably, Nuku Hiva has been blessed by the gods. With towering mountains, eight magnificent harbors, and one of the world’s highest waterfalls, Nuku Hiva is rich with Mother Nature’s jewels. The island could lay claim to many claims to fame, such as its deep, unpolluted waters, its lush forests bursting with vitality, and its fascinating array of archaeological sites, including tikis (sacred statues) and pae pae (stone platforms that formed the foundations of homes).

Yet for those in the know, the island’s primary claim to fame is that author Herman Melville deserted his ship to live among the island’s natives, and that his books Typee and Omoo were inspired by his experiences on Nuku Hiva.

Today’s Excursion – Taipivai Valley Scenic Drive

We discovered the beauty of Nuku Hiva and followed the trails of adventurer and novelist, Herman Melville, on this half-day exploration of the island.

Muake Hill, Toovii Plateau, Photo Stops, Beautiful Views

After tendering ashore, board the 4×4 vehicle for a rugged trip into the island’s interior. The first stop is at the 2,834-foot (864-metre) Muake Hill, from where you can enjoy the best view of the bay. Continue driving up a steep trail, over the high Toovii Plateau, and through lush vegetation toward the Taipivai Valley. Along the way, photo stops at various viewpoints provide breathtaking vistas of the coastline, bays, and valleys. Pausing every so often, the guide tells you about the area’s rich flora and fauna.

Taipivai Valley & Taipivai Village

The Taipivai Valley was made famous by the American writer, Herman Melville (1819-1891), who deserted his ship and hid in the valley. Captured by the natives, he spent several weeks here and learned during this time about their way of life. His novel Typee is based on this experience. Your tour takes you through the small village of Taipivai, where people primarily engage in agriculture. From here, proceed to the beach area, from where you can enjoy views of the surrounding mountains.

Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Marquesas

Travel back to Taiohae and visit the Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Marquesas. The church was built with different-coloured stones from the six Marquesas Islands, and magnificently carved sculptures adorn the interior.

Dinner was in The Atlantide Restaurant.